Copenhagen in 3 days

A Three-Day Foodie and Cultural Journey Through Copenhagen

As an experienced traveler and self-proclaimed foodie, few cities captivate me quite like Copenhagen. From its world-renowned restaurants to its vibrant arts scene and cozy cafés, this Danish capital is a haven for anyone seeking a blend of culinary indulgence and cultural exploration. If you’re planning a trip, here’s my perfectly curated three-day itinerary that will take you through the best of Copenhagen’s flavors and sights.

Day 1: Foodie Adventures & Vesterbro Vibes

I based myself at Coco Hotel, a boutique gem in Vesterbro that perfectly balanced style and comfort. The rooms were cozy yet chic, with thoughtfully designed interiors that felt warm and welcoming. The hotel’s café was one of my favorite features—serving buttery croissants, rich coffee, and French-inspired fare that became my morning ritual. In the evenings, the vibe at the hotel transformed with a live DJ spinning eclectic sets, creating a lively yet relaxed atmosphere that made it hard to leave.

I kicked off my journey with a visit to Hart Bakery, a creation of Richard Hart, a celebrated baker who honed his craft at the iconic Tartine Bakery in San Francisco. Hart’s decision to bring his expertise to Copenhagen has transformed the city’s bakery scene. Known for introducing sourdough bread to new heights, his former work in San Francisco laid the groundwork for the artisanal approach that defines Hart Bakery today.

At Hart, the signature sourdough bread and cardamom buns are among the most-reviewed and highly acclaimed items, each showcasing Hart’s meticulous attention to flavor and texture. I chose a cardamom bun, one of my favorite morning pastries, and paired it with a cup of their rich, expertly brewed coffee—a simple yet perfect breakfast. Once I was energized, I took a leisurely stroll through the hip Vesterbro district. This area is bursting with trendy boutiques, colorful murals, and a laid-back vibe that felt perfect for easing into my Copenhagen experience.

For lunch, I stopped by Mad & Kaffe, a local favorite known for its Instagram-worthy brunch platters and traditional smørrebrød. Smørrebrød, Denmark’s iconic open-faced sandwich, has roots in the 19th century when farmers would pack layered rye bread with leftovers as a portable meal. Over time, this simple dish evolved into a sophisticated culinary art form, and Mad & Kaffe serves some of the best in the city. From classic combinations like pickled herring with dill to modern takes featuring avocado and poached eggs, the menu celebrates both tradition and innovation. Sitting outside, I soaked in the lively atmosphere as I enjoyed my meal.

The afternoon led me to La Banchina, a charming waterfront spot all about relaxation. I ordered a glass of natural wine and let the serene views over the harbor wash over me. I decided to embrace Nordic sauna culture, which celebrates the balance of hot saunas and cold-water dips—a ritual that’s as much about wellness as it is about social connection. La Banchina, beyond being a cozy retreat in colder months, holds a special place in Copenhagen’s cultural fabric. In the summer, it transforms into a bustling gathering place where locals and visitors alike swim, sunbathe, and mingle along its picturesque dock. The sauna here, available to rent for 50 DKK per hour, was the perfect retreat from the cold. After warming up in the sauna, I indulged in a bowl of delicious vegetable soup that was hearty and comforting, perfectly suited for the chilly day. Surrounded by the calming harbor views, I found the experience both rejuvenating and deeply relaxing, a quintessentially Danish way to unwind.

As the evening set in, I dined at Sanchez, where modern Mexican cuisine met Scandinavian design. Chef Rosio Sánchez, the mastermind behind this restaurant, began her culinary journey in Chicago, working in prominent kitchens such as WD~50 under Wylie Dufresne, where she honed her skills in experimental and avant-garde cuisine. Later, she moved to Copenhagen and became a pastry chef at the world-renowned Noma, where she gained international recognition for her inventive desserts. Her journey brought her Mexican heritage into the spotlight of Nordic cuisine.

During my visit, I had the pleasure of meeting Jonathan Castro, one of the chefs and the general manager at Sanchez. Jonathan enthusiastically talked me through all the dishes, sharing the inspiration behind each one while we swapped recommendations for his upcoming trip to New York. In return, he gave me insider tips on the best food spots around Copenhagen. At Sanchez, the dishes fuse authentic Mexican flavors with local Danish ingredients, creating a menu that feels both nostalgic and innovative. From perfectly spiced tacos to inventive cocktails, every bite was a testament to the culinary brilliance and passion for storytelling through food that permeates this restaurant. I ended the meal with their signature dessert—an open-face churro sandwich made with a mezcal-vanilla frozen parfait, bitter cream, and orange zest—a sweet and citrusy finale that perfectly capped off the experience.

I ended the night at Jolene, an unpretentious bar with a laid-back, lounge-like atmosphere that echoes the listening rooms of Japan. These Japanese listening rooms are intimate spaces dedicated to enjoying meticulously curated vinyl records in high-fidelity sound, emphasizing music as an experience rather than mere background noise. This bar came as a recommendation from Jonathan Castro, and I was thrilled to discover that it had recently earned a spot on the prestigious World's 50 Best Bars list. Jolene offers a diverse lineup of themed DJ nights, ranging from retro disco to cutting-edge electronic sets, all while maintaining its relaxed charm.

One of the highlights of my visit was getting a behind-the-scenes tour of their infusion lab in the back, where the bartenders craft custom liquors with an impressive level of creativity. The friendly and knowledgeable staff eagerly shared the bar’s history and talked me through their signature drinks after hearing that Jonathan had sent me. Jolene is a place where you can truly unwind, whether you’re savoring a carefully crafted cocktail or soaking in the expertly curated music.

Day 2: Art, Culture & Casual Dining

The day started with a visit to Lille Bakery, a hidden gem tucked away in an industrial area. Founded by Jessica Kjær and Mia Boland, Lille Bakery was established to bring high-quality, accessible bread to Copenhagen’s Amager neighborhood. Jessica and Mia met while working together in kitchens across Copenhagen, quickly bonding over their shared passion for baking and sustainable practices. Before founding Lille Bakery, Jessica honed her skills at the renowned Tartine Bakery in San Francisco, while Mia worked at acclaimed Danish restaurants such as Relae and Amass, where she developed her expertise in innovative Nordic cuisine. Their complementary backgrounds and shared vision have made Lille Bakery not just a bakery but a community hub. Since its opening, it has become a cornerstone of the local community, offering a warm, communal atmosphere that feels more like a gathering space than just a bakery. Known for their commitment to sustainability and using locally sourced ingredients, Lille has also played a significant role in shaping Copenhagen’s modern baking scene. This bakery is an absolute must-visit stop for anyone exploring the city.

During my visit, I enjoyed a sausage roll that was perfectly flaky and satisfying, paired with an incredible cup of coffee brewed to perfection. For dessert, I couldn’t resist trying a Berliner—a soft, pillowy pastry filled with sweet jam, showcasing Lille’s mastery of classic baked goods. The standout, however, was the iced tea—so refreshing and perfectly balanced that I couldn’t help but order a second glass. It was easily the best iced tea I’ve ever tasted, making the experience truly unforgettable.

Beyond their famous bread and pastries, Lille Bakery also offers a small but thoughtful lunch menu. Seasonal soups, hearty salads, and open-faced sandwiches made with their signature sourdough are some of the highlights. These lunches feel like a family gathering, where neighbors and visitors alike come together to share a meal. The long communal tables and welcoming atmosphere make it easy to strike up a conversation or simply enjoy the sense of connection that permeates the space. These dishes showcase the same focus on quality and freshness that defines the bakery, making it a popular spot for a midday meal. During my visit, I savored their offerings and truly felt at home.

Next, I immersed myself in contemporary art at Copenhagen Contemporary, where I spent hours exploring its impressive collection. One standout experience was the James Turrell exhibit, a mesmerizing showcase of his mastery over light and space. Turrell, an American artist, has dedicated his career to crafting immersive environments that challenge perception, creating spaces where light itself feels tangible. His work is deeply influenced by his studies in perceptual psychology and his Quaker upbringing, which emphasizes silence and introspection.

The exhibit featured James Turrell's "Aftershock," a series of works that demonstrated his unparalleled ability to manipulate light and space. This installation immersed viewers in environments where light felt almost physical, creating an experience that was as much about perception as it was about art. The exhibit’s centerpiece was a room bathed in gradients of color that shifted subtly over time, evoking a sense of otherworldly calm and introspection. Another standout was a smaller, enclosed installation that played with contrasts of light and darkness, making visitors question their depth perception and sense of spatial boundaries. The exhibit left me with a profound appreciation for Turrell’s exploration of how light can shape human experience.

Copenhagen Contemporary’s commitment to hosting artists of this caliber has solidified its place as a cultural beacon in the city. In addition to James Turrell’s "Aftershock," I explored two other standout exhibits: "The Length of the Horizon" and "Let Everything Happen to You."

"The Length of the Horizon" showcased a breathtaking interplay of light and expansive space, pushing the boundaries of how we perceive distance and scale. This exhibit by Kapwani Kiwanga featured large hanging curtains that transformed the gallery space into a shifting landscape. These curtains, made of layered, semi-translucent textiles, created a sense of depth and movement, inviting viewers to reconsider the concept of a horizon as both a physical boundary and a metaphor for possibility. Kiwanga, known for her interdisciplinary approach combining art, anthropology, and history, used these installations to explore themes of observation, perspective, and the cultural significance of horizons. The blend of physical and emotional resonance in Kiwanga's work left a profound impression on me, further showcasing her talent for integrating art with meaningful cultural commentary.

"Let Everything Happen to You" was deeply emotional and stunningly beautiful. This exhibit, created by Catherine Raven Davidson, reflects her remarkable ability to explore themes of human connection and vulnerability. Davidson, known for her multidisciplinary approach, often weaves light, textiles, and immersive environments into her work. A graduate of Yale's School of Art, she has exhibited globally, earning acclaim for her thought-provoking installations. Reviews of "Let Everything Happen to You" describe it as transformative, and I wholeheartedly agree. The exhibit invited vulnerability and openness, encouraging me to embrace the breadth of human emotion. I left the space feeling moved and contemplative, a testament to Davidson's ability to craft art that touches both the mind and heart.

The museum’s blend of rotating exhibits and large-scale installations ensures there is always something thought-provoking to experience. Turrell's work, in particular, underscores the power of art to transform how we see the world.

By lunchtime, I made my way to Warpigs, a lively brewpub in the Meatpacking District. I opted for one of their excellent craft beers, soaking in the casual, buzzing atmosphere. Warpigs is renowned for its Texas-style BBQ, an unexpected yet delightful find in a city like Copenhagen. Their menu features mouthwatering brisket, ribs, and pulled pork, all smoked to perfection and served with classic sides like mac and cheese and pickles. While I didn’t have a meal here, the smell alone was enough to tempt me into planning a return visit. It’s a must-visit spot for beer and BBQ lovers alike.

In the afternoon, I took a break at Pompette, a charming wine bar that felt like a slice of Paris in Copenhagen, where I also had my lunch. I indulged in a number of small plates, including cheeses and cured meats, as well as marinated olives, a tangy artichoke dip, crusty bread, and a smoked salmon tartine. Pairing these dishes with a crisp glass of wine, I felt perfectly refreshed and ready for the rest of the day.

For dinner, I chose Paesano, which transported me to Italy with its authentic pasta dishes and wood-fired pizzas. The pastas were a highlight of the day—expertly cooked with rich, perfectly balanced sauces that showcased the chefs' skills. I sat at the counter here and struck up a conversation with Mikkel, a local from the neighborhood. Mikkel shared fascinating insights about Copenhagen, his travels around the world, and his time living in New York. To add to the experience, this reservation was thoughtfully made for me by the mixologists from the bar Bird, making the meal feel even more special. The warm, welcoming ambiance and engaging conversation made the experience even more memorable, providing exactly the kind of connection and relaxation I needed to unwind.

Later, I wrapped up the day at Jolene, a cornerstone of Copenhagen’s vibrant nightlife scene. Here, I met some new friends and enjoyed a laid-back, lounge-like atmosphere that set the perfect tone for the evening. I ordered a grilled cheese—known locally as a "toastie"—which was the perfect comfort food to accompany the lively ambiance. The bar, renowned for its influence on Copenhagen’s nightlife, featured house music that had everyone on their feet. I danced late into the evening, fully immersed in the energy of this iconic venue. Jolene is a must-visit for its combination of good food, great music, and an authentic slice of the city’s culture.

Day 3: Relaxation & Michelin-Starred Finale

On my final day, I eased into the morning with breakfast at Coco Hotel. Once again, I found myself savoring their expertly brewed coffee and flaky croissants while enjoying the hotel’s inviting atmosphere. As I sat at the food counter, I chatted with the hotel staff about my trip so far. They listened with genuine interest and offered thoughtful tips for exploring the city, making the experience feel personal and enriching. The attention to detail in everything from the decor to the service had truly elevated my stay.

Lunch was a luxurious affair at Rouge Oysters, where I indulged in fresh oysters and champagne. The briny oysters paired with bubbly left me feeling utterly pampered and ready for a relaxing afternoon. The wine list here is thoughtfully curated, featuring a mix of classic and natural wines that complement the seafood beautifully. From crisp whites to bold rosés, the selection reflects a deep appreciation for quality and variety. Whether you're a wine enthusiast or simply looking to elevate your meal, Rouge Oysters provides a pairing experience that's as memorable as the dishes themselves.

After lunch, I took a leisurely stroll through Ørstedsparken, a serene green oasis in the heart of the city. It was the perfect place to reflect on my trip and enjoy a quiet moment surrounded by nature. When I was ready for a drink, I popped into Ørsted Ølbar, a cozy beer bar with an impressive craft beer selection. The bar is candy-lit with mounds of wax drippings on its tables and counters, which add a warm, slightly mysterious glow to the atmosphere. The bar is also known for hosting intimate music events, which bring in a mix of local and up-and-coming performers. During my visit, I had a long conversation with two bartenders, one of whom was a member of a band that performs there frequently. She even played me some of her music, adding a personal and memorable touch to the experience. The bar also brews a selection of beers in-house, ranging from hoppy IPAs to rich stouts and crisp lagers. Each brew reflects a dedication to quality and creativity, making Ørsted Ølbar a standout spot for beer enthusiasts. Sipping on a freshly brewed pint while chatting with the knowledgeable staff was a highlight of my afternoon.

The grand finale of my Copenhagen adventure was dinner at Noma, a restaurant that has redefined Nordic cuisine. Founded in 2003 by chef René Redzepi, Noma's journey has been extraordinary. Redzepi, a Danish chef of Macedonian-Albanian descent, trained under culinary legends like Ferran Adrià at El Bulli before opening Noma. His vision was to explore the untapped potential of Nordic ingredients and create a cuisine that reflected the region’s identity, seasonality, and culture.

Noma opened its doors at Strandgade in Christianshavn, quickly gaining attention for its innovative approach to foraging and fermentation. Over the years, it transformed the culinary landscape, inspiring chefs worldwide to embrace local ingredients and rethink traditional techniques. In 2010, Noma earned its first top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and held the position for several years, cementing its global culinary reputation.

In addition to its original location, Noma experimented with unique pop-ups, including a celebrated stint in Tokyo in 2015 and a tropical reinvention in Tulum, Mexico, in 2017. These temporary projects allowed Noma to adapt its philosophy to different ecosystems, exploring new ingredients while staying true to its Nordic roots. In 2018, Noma relocated to its current home in Refshalevej, an urban oasis featuring greenhouses, fermentation labs, and a stunning waterfront view—embodying Redzepi’s commitment to innovation and sustainability.

In 2021, Noma joined the prestigious "Best of the Best" list on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, an honor reserved for establishments that have claimed first place multiple times. This accolade solidified Noma’s legacy as a trailblazer in modern gastronomy, a testament to Redzepi’s relentless pursuit of excellence and creativity.

The "Ocean Season" menu was an extraordinary tribute to the sea, offering a multi-course tasting experience that explored the flavors and textures of Nordic seafood. I sat at the communal table with three other food enthusiasts from around the world: one from Germany, another from London, and a Chinese chef trained in Paris, soon to begin an apprenticeship at Geranium, a nearby Michelin three-star restaurant known for its focus on seasonality and Nordic cuisine.

Detailed Review of the "Ocean Season" Menu

  1. Whole Cooked Langoustine with Sour Berry Paste, Plantain Powder; Mussel Broth with Bergamot
    The meal began with a whole cooked langoustine, meticulously de-shelled at the table. This dish combined delicate, sweet seafood with sour berry paste and plantain powder, adding unexpected, earthy sweetness to the richness of the langoustine. Accompanying the shellfish was a mussel broth infused with bergamot. You were instructed to sip the broth through a bed of seaweed, which elevated the flavors into a potent, oceanic elixir. The pickled magnolia bud, a unique garnish, added an unexpected but intriguing tang, completing this opening course with a refreshing complexity.

  2. Seaweed à la Crème
    The next course consisted of pieces of beautifully prepared seaweed, each leaf carefully arranged over a creamy sauce. The dish, which resembled the bottom of a clean, well-maintained aquarium, offered a delicate and briny introduction to the flavors of the ocean. A particular highlight was the oyster leaf wrapped in the seaweed, providing a slightly salty, savory element that was balanced by the richness of the cream.

  3. Mussel Wrapped with Golden Beets
    For the third course, a mussel was unveiled from under a rock, which added an element of theater to the dish. The mussel was perfectly cooked, tender and sweet, wrapped in delicate golden beet slices. This presentation was not only a visual delight but also a textural contrast, with the crisp, earthy beets balancing the soft, briny mussel. The flavors were clean and fresh, yet rich in their simplicity, allowing the natural qualities of the ingredients to shine through.

  4. Raw Squid on Grilled Koji (Fermented Barley)
    A dish that definitely raised eyebrows was the raw squid, delicately sliced and served on grilled koji, a product of soybeans fermented with Aspergillus oryzae. The koji added a complex, earthy flavor that paired beautifully with the translucent squid, offering a combination of textures that was both smooth and slightly chewy. The fermented barley provided a contrast in both texture and taste, infusing the dish with a nutty, umami depth. This was a bold dish, and while the texture of the squid was intriguing, it also pushed the boundaries of the diner’s comfort zone. The introduction of moldy soybeans, while fascinating from a culinary perspective, was perhaps a bridge too far for some, with the dish's avant-garde presentation and flavors eliciting a range of reactions.

  5. Cod Roe Confit with Elderflower Waffle and Wasabi Leaf
    The cod roe confit was a standout for its delicate, mellow flavor, subdued through the confit preparation. This was paired with an elderflower waffle, which provided a light sweetness, and the wasabi leaf, offering a touch of spiciness. The balance between the richness of the cod roe and the floral notes from the elderflower was exceptional. The dish showcased Redzepi's mastery of balancing contrasting flavors and textures, presenting something both familiar and new.

  6. Cod Head with Tongue on the Bone and "Eye Pie"
    No course at Noma would be complete without a moment of shock, and this dish was the culmination of that experience. A cod head was presented at the table, with tongue on the bone and a portion referred to as "eye pie." The eye pie was made from squid ink and the white of the cod's eye, served as a playful yet unsettling homage to the natural world. While the dish was undoubtedly creative, it pushed the limits of what diners might find palatable, especially for those not accustomed to more challenging ingredients. The tongue was tender, though the visual nature of the dish made it an intense experience, one that, for some, might have been a step too far.

  7. Sweet Oyster Ice Cream
    For dessert, Noma introduced a "sweet oyster" ice cream. This dessert mimicked the flavor profile of an oyster but in an unexpected, sweeter form. The dish was creamy and smooth, with subtle notes of the sea, enhanced by citrus and herbaceous undertones. The cleverness of this dessert lay in its ability to transform an iconic oceanic flavor into something entirely different and more palatable, providing a satisfying end to the meal.

The meal was a journey through taste, texture, and presentation, reflecting Noma’s commitment to pushing culinary boundaries while honoring its Nordic roots. Each dish was a thought-provoking exploration of the sea, with flavors and techniques that may challenge diners but ultimately offer a unique and unforgettable gastronomic experience.

Booking well in advance and committing to the high price tag was absolutely worth it to experience this unforgettable dining moment. While some dishes pushed the boundaries of what I found comfortable, I left with a deep appreciation for the artistry behind Noma’s creations. Beauty, it turns out, really is in the eye of the beholder—and sometimes, it resides in the stomach.

Final Thoughts

Copenhagen is a city that rewards curiosity, whether you’re diving into its cutting-edge culinary scene or wandering its cobblestone streets. This three-day itinerary captures the essence of what makes the city so special, blending unforgettable dining experiences with moments of cultural discovery and relaxation.

If you’ve visited Copenhagen or have your own must-visit spots, share them in the comments below. Happy travels and bon appétit!